Wheel question

[sandman70]

How soft of a wheel can I use in an outdoor rink, I weight 140 lbs. Also, my skates have 70mm wheels and I was wondering if there is any advantage going to smaller or larger wheels? Thanks.

[Alvare71]

Outdoor wheels, Well I will tell you you have a way better selection than there was 5 years ago. I used to skated on a 78A and sometimes if it was a roll on surface you could get away with 74A.

It really depends on the surface you are skating on

Concrete smooth to rough- 76A and up

asphalt- 80A and up, if its a hot day the harder the better.

Roll-on-74A and up

Tennis courts-78A and up

I think I covered every surface, once again it a personal choice and feel for what kind of wheel you need.

It depends on how you push off and your skating style, I will give you this advice though don't spend a ungodly amout of money on outdoor wheels and rotate them at the first sign of wear. They will last a long time.

I used to stagger 72A and 78A's on my outdoor wheels, but once again it will be how you feel.

As far as size it is up to you, larger wheels go faster, but it really depends on your skating style.......Do you take of fast and cruise around the rink or do you keep your feet moving. Nobody can tell you how the skate or wheel feels, only you can do that.

If you find a pro shop in a rink, ask them to try on a couple pairs of skates with different set ups, if they want your money I am sure they will let you take a couple laps around the rink.

[Alvare71]

Wheel terms:_

_Diameter:_
If you'll recall from grade school math, the diameter is
the length across the widest part of a circle. Twice the
length of the radius, if you prefer. For wheels, this is
measured in millimeters (mm). Most production skates come
with 72 and 76mm, with some high end skates equipped with
80mm wheels (other sizes are available through
mail-order).

The shorter the wheel, the more stable and
maneuverable your skates will be. However, they'll also
be slower. Conversely taller wheels will let you go
faster, but are less maneuverable.

_Maximum wheel size:_
Although maximum wheel size won't seem like a big deal
when you're just beginning, it will be important once you
become a proficient skater. Low-end skates generally come
stocked with 70 or 72mm wheels, while the higher-end
skates come with 76mm wheels.

This is no accident.

Skaters eventually want more speed, and taller wheels are
faster, all other things being equal. Some 76mm skates
will vary in their ability to take 80mm wheels too.
Smaller skate sizes might not have the option due to the
whole skate being smaller.

Not all skates can take larger wheels though. Most every
76mm skate will take up to 80 or 82mm (plenty large for
most people). 72mm skates are another story.

Depending on the runner and chassis design, some can take only up to
72.5mm wheels, while others can squeeze on 76mm ones.
Some people actually shave or grind down parts of their
skates so that they can fit larger wheels. In any case,
if you can afford it, I'd suggest going with skates that
can take at least 76mm wheels. You can always switch to
smaller wheels if you want.

_Durometer:_
Durometer has to do with the DURAbility of wheels. More
simply, it means how hard the wheel material is. The
industry (plastic industry I guess) "A" scale is used,
with 0 being softest, and 100 being hardest.

Most wheels are 78A or 82A. 78A is considered on the
softer side. They don't last quite as long as 82A's, but
since they're softer, they absorb bumps better for a
smoother ride. That's the primary trade-off when you go
about selecting wheel hardness. For most stock skates,
you won't have a choice, since they almost all come in
78A. If you want or need harder wheels, you can buy a
harder set when your original wheels wear out.



Rockering:
Rockering sounds like something grandma does while
knitting sweaters, doesn't it? Well, for skates, it means
that you can adjust the heights of the axles (and
therefore the wheels also), to approximate an ice-skate
blade's profile. Those blades are usually curved upwards
at the front and back (hockey skates anyway).

Curvature allows for more maneuverability, but at the
cost of stability at higher speeds. Trade-off once again?
You bet. If you think you might want rockering sometime
in the future, get skates that let you adjust it. Most
all middle and high-end skates will let you rocker your
wheels.





Bearings and ABEC ratings:


The two bearings inside each wheel are where the turning
action takes place. Bearings come in various ratings,
based on the ABEC scale. This acronym is pronounced
"ay-beck", and it stands for the "Annual Bearing
Engineering Council" which sets the specifications for
the ratings.

The higher the ABEC number the more precise the bearing
has been made. The ratings you'll come across are ABEC-1,
ABEC-3, and ABEC-5. There are ABEC-7's being sold now
too, but you probably won't see those on any skates.
Although you might think that the more precise the
bearings the faster it will spin, but this is still
subject to some debate. After you skate outdoors long
enough, ABEC-5's will be indistinguishable from ABEC-1's.
It's more important to keep your bearings clean and
well-lubed, in the long run.

Also note that bearings do not always have the rating
number marked on the shields. Unfortunately, this makes
it hard to know the real rating and you end up having to
trust the manufacturer or salesdroid's word.

[DannyG]

This acronym is pronounced
"ay-beck", and it stands for the "Annual Bearing
Engineering Council" which sets the specifications for
the ratings.

That's a pretty good compendium above...not to be hyper-correct, but the word is "Annular," meaning "circular" or "ring-like." This refers to the category of bearing that is being measured. Indeed, "ring-like" bearings are what our roller skates have, eh?

[Alvare71]

I was never strong at explaining myself by typing, Thats why all of these internet dating sites the woman never seem to get my since of humor.

[RichardGraham]

No comment.

[MDE3]

The "whys" and "why nots" of "ABEC" ratings, durometer ratings, and wheel diameters....2007/2008 version.

The numerical rating given as an ABEC rating is simply based on the amount of lateral and radial runout of the bearing. This is basically a measurement which allows/or does not allow the bearings to be recommended for use at specified loads and rpms.

The higher the number the lower the measured runout at a fixed deflection load. This was generally used to identify bearings which were suitable for very high rpm's ..or not..like above 20,000 rpms or so, not terribly relevant to skating loads and speeds.

Unfortunately the quality of the materials used, the precision of internal finish/surface polish, or the quality of the supplied lubrication are not defined by this testing....

Although one would think they are "inferred to be better", the higher the rating this is not necesarily so..... The old Boss Swiss bearing was never given an ABEC rating by the manufacturer..although it has for years been a benchmark of competition skate bearing quality. The reason is that a better grade of stainless alloy was used in both the races and ball bearings found in these bearings, as well as a much higher final grind to make for a smoother finish. Special lubricants made for skating applications were also used in these bearings....the result...a smoother, quieter, faster and easier rotation of the wheel..along with much greater durability. Although they may only have an ABEC rating of around "1", the true bottom line was that Boss Swiss bearings had a lower internal coefficient of friction(read dynamic drag) and lasted much longer than it's competitors.

To add to the compendium above, there are also "ABEC 9's" and possibly even higher rated bearings...Some of them incredibly cheap, and unfortunately some not so cheap.

Mini bearings, often a fadish choice, were first used in speed skating for lower drag, and lower weight so that a competitor would have a little more energy to spend for the sprint at the end of a 20k long distance race. They were used by competitors who often changed their bearings after almost every race, and which bearings were often supplied for free by a sponsor.... Durability was never the intent...so their appearance in hockey skates became another "gimick" to help promote the appearance of extra speed...Spend the extra money on speed skating lessons, not on mini bearings.

As to durometer..no dispute that it is used to define the relative hardness or softness of a wheel for a specific urethane compound. It may also help define relative "grip" and "wear" when comparing wheels using the same exact compound. However too many people assume that "durometer" is the whole story...far from it. Many different compounds and mechanical compositions are used by skate manufacturers....These wheel grip and wear properties will vary dramatically irrespective of their durometer.

Outdoor surfaces can vary dramatically, and in many instances a harder wheel of a specific compound will actually have a better grip than a softer wheel....Although additional grip may seem to imply poorer longevity, this is not necesarily true for outdoor wheels...Special compounds and in some cases wheel constructions have been developed for very abrasive outdoor surfaces...best to do some research on which wheels work best on which surfaces..and pay less attention to durometer ratings....they are a bit like ABEC ratings....and do not come close to telling the whole story.

Wheel size: smaller wheels take less energy to start in motion, but more energy to keep in motion. Larger wheels take more energy to start in motion and less energy to keep in motion. Simple assumption...it is easier to start fast on smaller wheels than larger wheels, but easier to skate faster on larger wheels than smaller wheels. Almost true...except that so much of starting acceleration depends on grip. Larger wheels tend to have a larger contact patch thus more grip.(for a given compound and durometer) This extra grip probably more than offsets any loss of acceleration due to the physics of diameter differences.