Mounting Hockey Frames

[blaine1]

Hey guys.
I'm a newbie here. I live in Louisiana of all places and have absolutely no place to go to get a frame mounted on a boot. I have some brand new Bauer H5 boots and some Tuuk Rocker chassis. I would rather not send them off b/c of postage. If anyone can help me it would be appreciated. Any suggestions of places to send my "skates" to would also be appreciated if it turns out that that is the best solution. Thanks.

[DannyG]

played three years on a Mission lower-end boot that was tre comfortable...

went through four chassis...took the first broken set to the shoe/boot repair guy & had the rivets pulled...put all three subsequent chassis on myself with a drill, and nuts and bolts. never once had a bolt/nut come off or even come loose. The bolt heads had to be flat heads, so they could be screwed in flush with the boot sole.

Don't necessarilly recommend the process, but it worked great...

any boot/shoe repair guy can rivet the new chassis, if you don't have a rink nearby with a pro shop that can do rivets.

<font color=purple>DannyG</font color=purple>

[MDE3]

Do you have an ice hockey arena with a pro shop? Usually they are equipped to do this. A Play it Again Sports shop will often do it up here, but many of them are real hockey shops too. I have done many myself, but it's not really worth it if you can get someone to do it for you. Just the tools may cost more than the normal charge to swap chassis at a pro shop ($25.00 - 30.00) Failing those options - check out a shoe repair facility, they may not know the details of where the chassis has to go exactly, but you could show them that and they would probably be able to do it.

[MDE3]

Lol - great minds and fools.

[missionhockey21]

You're local ice rink should be able to do it for you. If not go to a shoe repair place I've had them sew tounges back onto the skate, rivet the chassis, when I was in a pinch.

[-venom-]

Bauer H5 eh? Werd..... that's old-skool :)

[headhunter]

If you live anywhere near Lafayette you may want to check with Black Ice Sports (Epuck.com)

[blaine1]

Yup....have some H7's too. I currently use CCM 755 Kevlars(getting old school). Funny though....they are not too comfy.

[blaine1]

Yeah...bout 4 hours away so I will probably have to ship them. Know any places around Gulfport, MS or Biloxi. Does Southern Sports Supply do it?

[monheim]

Where's good place to buy a nice hi-lo chassis? I have a pair of CCM Externos but the chassis is horrible. I'd like to replace it with a better one, that allows me to tighten the axles without stopping the wheel from rolling.

[missionhockey21]

http://www.hockeymonkey.com/labeda-sensorframe.html

I have been very satisifed with these on my VSi boot.

[seyone]

I have rivets come loose all the time. the nut and bolt trick works great in a pinch.



http://ironmagazineforums.com/avatar.php?userid=68&dateline=1037164899.jpg

[MDE3]

The problem you have may not be the chassis, usually it is a question of the wheels or the spacers which are incorrectly made. I also had some ccm's (have two new sets of their chassis) and we had to get all new wheel spacers because the shoulders on the spacers were too narrow - they didn't work in the new chassis either - same problems with the wheels tightening up when you tighten the axle bolts - the bearings were being "preloaded" because of too much gap between the inner races and the bearing spacer shoulder.

If they were equipped with the blue Milleniums, some of these Milleniums had a hub problem that created the same thing as noted above(the "step" in the inside of the hub is too wide - wider than the spacer, and causes the bearings to tighten up when you tighten the axle bolts.), and has just happened to me with a new set of Rink Rats. Rink Rat recognized the problem and agreed to replace the offending wheels. Try a different set of Orange or Purple Milleniums, or another type of wheel maybe - Rink Rats have fantastic grip, and not all of their wheels have had this problem.

[MDE3]

What is ideal if you can get them is a screw and grommet set like is used in Graf skates. These grommets which go on the inside of the boot, have a small tang on the side of the shaft which goes through the skate sole, and prevents the grommet from spinning when you tighten the screws from the outside.

Tapered flathead screws work well except for the holes at the very front of the boot where it is almost impossible to get a screwdriver on them. If you can find tapered flat head allen screws - they work well as you can get the allen key inside the boot easily. The only problem I have found with those, is that the tapered head tends to work loose in the sole and needs to be tightened regularily as it tries to keep pulling through the sole.

With the screw and grommet arrangement - all your screws go in from the outside - so it is not a problem and the grommet head is wide and flat - and usually stays in the same location once tightened the first time.. You can order these from Graf, but they want an arm and a leg for them. I haven't been able to find them in the hardware market - but haven't looked that hard either. There are some grommets available in hardware stores, but they are for wood and have to be modified a bit before they can be used.

[missionhockey21]

I've been playing since I was three, and have never had a problem with rivets coming out. weird.

[monheim]

I've had the problem with both purple milleniums and the white hyper 250 outdoor wheels. The problem was global however, none of the wheels fit properly. I know it's not the spacers because I used the new ones on the stock wheels for a couple of weeks.

I've had a heck of a time finding wheels that fit. I even went to the CCM forums hoping to get a reply from one of their guys. The only people that replied had the same complaint I did, with no solution.

I used my kevlar 755s with prolite chassis for four years without ever having a problem, but it's not hi-lo.

[headhunter]

I have no idea. I would think somewhere in the Biloxi area thee would be a shop that could help you out. I live in Alabama so I don't know much about shops in your area, although I grew up in SW Mississippi.

[MDE3]

Yes I think one of the companies casting the little plastic hubs for these wheels has an engineering tolerance backwards - making the hub shoulder about .400 + .010, - .000 instead of .400 -.010, +.000. The wheel spacers are like.400" - .402".(for standard 688 bearings) The center hub shoulder must always be shorter in length than the spacers so the inner bearing races are solidly buttressed against the spacer ends before you tighten the axle bolts. This prevents the bearing from being side loaded and causing the drag we all have seen.

[MDE3]

The only other problem that could be the chassis would be if the wheels are actually touching the upper frame or each other which I have seen happen too - but it was on the Nexed chassis, and only with certain wheels. If the inner buttress on the frame(the wide spot on the inside of the frame which pushes against the inner race of the bearing where the axle goes through) is too wide it might cause pressure on the bearing grease covers and maybe cause some drag too but I have never seen this happen - not to say that it couldn't. Also I have found a bad batch of "short spacers" even when I purchased them separately in a hockey store. Both the originals and the repalcements (some of them) were too short. I had to measure the spacers to be sure they were long enough (or compare them to a known "good" one) I found this out by accident when I used some older spacers for mounting some wheels and those wheels didn't exhibit the problem.

Oh yes one other thing I forgot and this related to CCM skates - in particular the 855's and 955's. The bearings they supplied in the wheels would never spin free. They were like an imitaiton of the Boss Swiss with a yellow plastic ball spacer and open on that side like the Boss Swiss with the red plastic ball spacer. I could never get these bearings to spin free - in or out of the skate.

[oakvillecoyotes]

I had a pair of Graf 502s for ice hockey and it was an exceptionally good boot, however, due to my height i am unable to play rep ice hockey so i have turned to full time roller hockey. Anyways, I decided to take the Vibe 2 chassis off my Mission 2002 RMX model and put them on the bottom of my Grafs for a great price of 36$$ CDN. I have never played on a better roller hockey boot in my entire life. They were a perfect fit along with a full set of Labeda Dynastys. I recommend this setup to many others and i have had no problems with my Vibe 2 chassis.

thanks

[MDE3]

The only problem we ever had with the 704's was the fact they have insufficient ventilation for inline hockey - my son's feet sweat terribly in them